Summer Home Maintenance

 

·         Cut back overgrowth vegetation from your homes walls and fences.

·         Inspect your exterior for loose or rotted siding.

·         Wash windows inside and out.

·         Service your AC and change air filters.

·         Power wash your concrete driveway and sidewalks.

·         Wash, stain or reseal your deck.

·         Clean our gutters and down spouts.

·         Clean your dryer vent and exhaust dust.

·         Service your grill, then close the lid, turning the heat on high, and letting it cook for about a   half  hour.  

·         Refresh landscaping by adding a layer or two of fresh mulch.

Pre - Inspection Check List

You never heard of a “Pre - Inspection Check List”?    That’s because home inspectors don’t want you to have it and realtors don’t want you to have it.   What is it?   It’s a list that Aggressive Inspections has been giving to its clients for years.             It states;

• Access hatch to crawlspace(s); if secured have it unsecured.  Any storage or furnishings blocking access to hatch have removed.
• Access to attic(s); if secured have it unsecured.  Any storage or furnishings blocking access to entrance have removed.  Example;  clothing blocking access in a closet.
• Interior hot tubs or Jacuzzi; request the access panel be removed and or not blocked. This is so we can verify if the tub is GFCI protected a safety issue.
• Remove any storage or furnishings blocking access to the furnace, water heater or electric panels.  
• Ask to have any storage placed in the dish washer, micro wave or oven removed so that they can be inspected.
• Any locked doors have unlocked example; garage doors, any entry door to the house or interior rooms.
• If house is not occupied it is very important to assure all utilities are on (electric, water, gas) and the furnace(s) and water heater(s) are lit.  Also there are batteries in the thermostat (s).  Utilities are supplied to all appliances.   A home inspector cannot turn any utility on or lit any appliance.  Simple reason we do not own the house and do not know why they may have been turned off.  The last thing that we want to do is put in your report “We were unable to inspect”. 
• Radon testing; if you’re having a radon test done there are a few important rules that have to be adhered too.  Where the radon canister is placed it cannot be moved.  If it is, the test will be “Invalid”.   Must have a closed house condition for as long as the canister is in place (no open windows), if not, test is “Invalid”.   If the US postal Service or UPS delay the delivery of the canister to the lab, and the lab state’s the “test could not be analyzed, received late” the result is “Invalid”.   If the test is “Invalid” that is the result of the test.  And any re-testing will be an additional fee.
• Fireplace or wood stove; they should be free of all debris and storage and it is helpful if there is not an ongoing fire.

We give this check list to all our clients before the inspection happens because we hate to put in our reports “We Could Not Inspect”.   Why have a home inspection if you can’t inspect the whole house. We do our best so our clients are not left wondering about what was not inspected.

Why don’t other home inspectors do this?  It’s less work and less responsibility.  It’s the same with realtors.  The less problems found in the home the less work has to be done and it betters the odds of the deal not falling through from additional problems. 

Dam Them Frozen Water Pipes

When the temperatures drop, one major issue that could come up is a frozen water pipe.   Know why frozen pipes are so dangerous, the types of pipes that are most vulnerable to freezing and signs that a pipe is actually frozen.

Why Are Frozen Pipes Dangerous?

They can create an inconvenience but, more seriously, can cause major damage to your property.

•Lack of Running Water– The most obvious danger of a frozen pipe is the inability to access running water.  This can interfere with your everyday tasks such as washing the dishes or taking a shower

•Potential to Burst- The second problem that can occur when a pipe freezes is that the pipe actually bursts.  Once the actual water in the pipe freezes, pressure is created between the closed faucet and the blockage that can build up to a point that causes the pipe to burst.

Pipes That Are Vulnerable to Freezing

There are some pipes that are more vulnerable to freezing than others:

•Southern Climates- Pipes that are located in climates which rarely see cold temperatures may be particularly vulnerable to freezing as we just learned with this Januarys freeze.  This is due to the lack of insulation around the pipes.  Since these areas rarely see temperatures around 32 degrees Fahrenheit, water pipes are more likely to be located in areas of the property which are not properly insulated against the cold. 

 •Exterior Walls- Water pipes that are located along the exterior walls of a home can be vulnerable to freezing.  This is because they may not have the adequate amount of insulation protecting them from the exterior temperatures.

•Attics and Basements/Crawlspaces- Pipes that are located in attics, crawlspaces or in basements may also have a greater tendency to freeze.  These pipes may not receive the same amount of heat as the rest of the property.  If these areas are not used as living space, they also may not be properly insulated.

Signs of Frozen Pipes

There are a few clues which can help you determine if you have frozen pipes:

•The Temperature Is Right- Pipes cannot freeze if it is not cold enough outside for them to do so.  Water does not freeze when it is 60 degrees Fahrenheit outside, and neither do pipes.  When the temperature falls to 32 degrees Fahrenheit or lower, you should begin to take precautions to prevent vulnerable pipes from freezing.

•There Is Frost on the Pipe- For pipes that can actively be seen, such as those under sinks, you may be able to see frost that has accumulated on the exterior of the pipe.  This can serve as a warning sign that the pipe is frozen before you ever try to turn on the faucet.

•No Water Is Coming Out of the Faucet- Another sign that you may have a frozen pipe on your hands is lack of running water.  If you turn on a kitchen or bathroom faucet and only a slight trickle of water or no water at all comes out, the water pipe leading to the faucet may be frozen.

•Strange Smells- Another potential sign of a blocked pipe is an odd smell coming from a faucet or drain. If the pipe is partially or completely blocked, the only way the odor can escape is back up in the direction of your property.

Act Quickly

Once you are aware that a pipe is frozen, you must act quickly to thaw the pipe.  Depending on the location of the pipe and your level of expertise, you can attempt to thaw the pipe yourself or you can contact a licensed plumber to thaw the pipe for you.  It is imperative to thaw the pipe as soon as possible, because it has the potential to burst and cause extensive damage to your property.

How Much Does a Frozen Pipe Cost to Fix?

It is very difficult to estimate the cost of fixing a frozen pipe because each situation is so unique. Two factors that play a huge role in cost are the location of the pipe and whether the pipe has burst.

If you are able to easily access the blockage, such as a pipe under a kitchen sink, you might be able to thaw the blockage for free using hair dryer or hot rags.

If the blockage is buried in a wall, fixing the issue will become more expensive. You may spend a few hundred dollars cutting open sheetrock to find the problem or more than a thousand if you need to hire a plumber find and thaw out the blockage.

If a frozen pipe bursts and you have a flooding issue on your hands, you could be faced with thousands of dollars of damage. You will have to hire a plumber to fix the burst pipe and then you will have to deal with fixing any damage the water has caused inside your p

Have You Had Your Chimney Inspected?

  Home Inspectors do level 1 (visual) fireplace and chimney inspections only.  Winter is here.  If you have a fireplace make sure the chimney and flue are in good working order.  You can check yourself or call in a chimney professional to diagnose the chimney and fireplace for any problem (level 2) before it gets big, expensive and potentially dangerous.

 
Exterior

  Visually assess the chimney from the outside.  Is it leaning?  Are there any chipped bricks or masonry joints?  Do you see any cracks or holes?  If your chimney is factory-built metal, look for any corrosion, stains or loose sections.  If your chimney is exposed to your attic, make sure to check there as well.  Look for any signs indicating repairs are necessary.

Chimney cap

  A good cap can reduce damage caused to a chimney by water and wildlife.  Rain and snow can enter an uncapped chimney, and subsequently freeze and thaw, causing expansion damage.  Small wildlife can nest in chimneys, creating clogs and potentially introducing fleas, ticks, worms and other disease-causing pests to your home.  A chimney cap with screen mesh will keep animals out while shielding your roof from embers and sparks.

Leaks& stains

  Inside the house, check the area around your chimney for any stains or dampness.  These could be caused by faulty flashing around the chimney at the roof line, or by a damaged flue liner.  If you see signs of water around your chimney, call a chimney professional right away.

Flue

  Open the clean-out door from the base of the flue, located either in your basement or outside the house.  Using a small mirror and flashlight to see up the flue, look for buildup of soot and also any cracks, holes or separations.  If in doubt, give your chimney professional a call for a good checkup and cleaning.

Interior

  Check the brickwork in your fireplace for wear.  Check the damper as well, it should open and close easily.  Look into the smoke chamber above the damper to check for buildup of soot.  Again, call your chimney professional for service if you see any of these telltale signs. 

  Chimney safety should be a high priority for every homeowner.  With regular maintenance, your fireplace and chimney can give you years of wonderful service.  A chimney professional can spot things that even a diligent homeowner could miss.  Call on a pro to do regular cleanings and safety checks as part of your home-maintenance routine.  Then throw another log on the fire, sit back and enjoy.

Winter Is Here Again

Everyone puts off those last minute maintenance chores until the weather turns cold.  So we felt bringing back this previous blog entry, a list of items that will make the transition into winter mode that much easier.

 

Heating

Furnace Inspection;  Having your furnace inspected and is operating at peak efficiency is a wise investment.  Typical cost for a technician to inspect and clean your furnace is around $80 to $100.00.  This is a small price to pay to avoid a costly repair on the coldest day of the year when your furnace won’t start.  Change your furnace filter every 30 days or so, if you have animals who shed hair a more frequent replacement might be required.

Check or have your chimney checked for any cracks, missing brick or mortar or loose rain cap.  The freezing thawing action of water penetrating small cracks can do a lot of damage over the winter season.  If you have a wood burning fireplace you should consider having it cleaned prior to use and have the flue tiles inspected for any cracks or deficiencies.

If you have ceiling fans now is a good time to clean the dust and lint off the blades and reverse direction of motor.  Forcing the warm air down will make your living area feel much more cozy.

 

Windows & Doors

Caulking Windows;  Clean your windows and doors inside and out.   This is a great time to check your seals and exterior caulking.  Ensuring your seams on brick and concrete window sills are not open can save you a lot of money on needless repairs later on.   Water can enter your exposed seams cracking mortar and eventually damaging the brick below.  This “spalling” as it is known, happens when clay style brick absorbs moisture, which then freezes and blows off part of the brick surface.

Check all your door closures to ensure they all operate smoothly.  Screen doors should have glass panels lowered or installed on older models.  Basement windows screens in window wells are susceptible to damage from rodents and other small animals.  Screens should be removed and stored for the winter.  Replace any damaged door seals or sweeps to prevent drafts from entering home during the cold months.  Operate your garage doors and lightly grease track for smoother and quieter operation.

 

Roofs & Gutters

Flashing Not Sealed on Roof; Inspect your roofs shingles for any damaged or missing tabs.  Pay close attention to any flashings on walls or chimneys to ensure that they are completely sealed.  Caulk any suspect areas to be doubly sure of preventing any roof leaks.   Clean out any debris in gutters and ensure your downspouts and extensions are in good condition.  If you have an older home using heating cables for eaves or downspouts, now is a good time to ensure that they are in good working order.   Put away your rain barrels and ensure your splash pads and extensions are directing water away from your home.

 

Plumbing

Draining Exterior; Tap Drain all your exterior water lines to prevent freezing.  I personally always leave the exterior tap open and have never had a freeze up problem.  If you have hose reels installed, now is a good time to store them after draining out the water.  On older homes with crawlspaces now is a good time to close ventilation vents and cover with insulation in preparation for winter.  Any in ground sprinkler lines should have already been blown out by your sprinkler maintenance company, if not call them immediately.

Wrapping your hot water tank and hot water lines with insulation can save you money all year long.  Check your sump pump by either lifting float or pouring water into unit to ensure it is in operating condition.

 

Drafts & Air Leaks

Energy experts estimate about 30% of the heat in your home is lost to leaks and drafts.  Adding foam seals to exterior wall outlets can stop and lot of heat loss.  Check any penetrations on the exterior wall of your house and seal any gaps with caulking, this stops both cold air and moisture from entering your home.  Check you interior for leaks and missing insulation at penetrations.  Most contractors will not replace your vapor barrier or insulation when they install electrical or heating vents.  Replacing insulation and re-sealing vapor barrier can save a lot of heat loss over the course of a winter.

Prior to Inspection Check List

You never heard of a “Prior to Inspection Check List”?    That’s because home inspectors don’t want you to have it and realtors don’t want you to have it.   What is it?   It’s a list that Aggressive Inspections has been giving to its clients for years.             It states;

• Access hatch to crawlspace(s); if secured have it unsecured.  Any storage or furnishings blocking access to hatch have removed.
• Access to attic(s); if secured have it unsecured.  Any storage or furnishings blocking access to entrance have removed.  Example;  clothing blocking access in a closet.
• Interior hot tubs or Jacuzzi; request the access panel be removed and or not blocked. This is so we can verify if the tub is GFCI protected a safety issue.
• Remove any storage or furnishings blocking access to the furnace, water heater or electric panels.  
• Ask to have any storage placed in the dish washer, micro wave or oven removed so that they can be inspected.
• Any locked doors have unlocked example; garage doors, any entry door to the house or interior rooms.
• If house is not occupied it is very important to assure all utilities are on (electric, water, gas) and the furnace(s) and water heater(s) are lit.  Also there are batteries in the thermostat (s).  Utilities are supplied to all appliances.   A home inspector cannot turn any utility on or lit any appliance.  Simple reason we do not own the house and do not know why they may have been turned off.  The last thing that we want to do is put in your report “We were unable to inspect”. 
• Radon testing; if you’re having a radon test done there are a few important rules that have to be adhered too.  Where the radon canister is placed it cannot be moved.  If it is, the test will be “Invalid”.   Must have a closed house condition for as long as the canister is in place (no open windows), if not, test is “Invalid”.   If the US postal Service or UPS delay the delivery of the canister to the lab, and the lab state’s the “test could not be analyzed, received late” the result is “Invalid”.   If the test is “Invalid” that is the result of the test.  And any re-testing will be an additional fee.
• Fireplace or wood stove; they should be free of all debris and storage and it is helpful if there is not an ongoing fire.

We give this check list to all our clients before the inspection happens because we hate to put in our reports “We Could Not Inspect”.   Why have a home inspection if you can’t inspect the whole house. We do our best so our clients are not left wondering about what was not inspected.

Why don’t other home inspectors do this?  It’s less work and less responsibility.  It’s the same with realtors.  The less problems found in the home the less work has to be done and it betters the odds of the deal not falling through from additional problems. 

The Dreaded Dual Agent

The practice of representing BOTH the seller and the buyer in the same transaction.  

New Jersey is among the states that permit “dual agency representation,” in which a seller's agent may also represent a buyer who simply shows up at an open house or calls the telephone number on a sign without already having found his or her own agent. 

In many states this practice is ILLEGAL in hopes of protecting the buying and selling public from this very gray area of Real Estate. 

Think of it like a football game:  There are two teams, each with their own coach; and a referee to ensure rules are adhered to on each side of the ball.   Imagine a game where the coaches have been removed and the referee is the coach of both teams.  Knowing each team's strengths and weaknesses.  Knowing exactly what play the teams will do in every situation.  Now imagine that the referee had a favorite team of the two, and with all that information about both teams, giving them the inside scoop.  The score would be 100-0.   And to top it all off....that referee gets paid the salary as if the head coach on both teams.  Yep, a double paycheck. 

If a broker is a dual agent in a transaction he/she is the ONLY winner.  I don't see how it benefits anyone but the realtor.    

Buyers agents are free to buyers...sellers pay the commission.  A buyer’s agent should represent and fight for ONLY you. 

Sellers, you are already paying both commissions...you hire your listing agent to represent you and fight for ONLY you. 

So my point is even if you don't work with an agent, make sure you have your own representation